Mount Tai, Shandong, China

4ROCruiser 5:00 PM May 17, 2020

In Person
Growing up learning so much about Mount Tai and now we had a chance to actually see it in person. What a wonder it is! Our hotel was really close to the entrance to the mountain when we were they on a private tour. Everything was taken care of by our guide, all we had to do was follow him. We took the shuttle up to the cable car station and then up on the cable car ride to the top. There was no way that we could do what most locals did, climb up on the stairway. I believe most of them did it almost religiously as a way to show their respects. The only disappointment for me was the crowds. There were just way too many people there making the whole place chaotic and dirty.

4SoozSolo 5:00 PM Dec 7, 2014

favoured by young Chinese, a real revelry & party-like atmosphere
The holiest and most-visited of China’s five Taoist mountains; from foot to peak, there’s a few routes you can take to climb Tai Shan (Shan meaning Mountain), but the most popular, and “special way” favoured by Emperors, is the Red Gate/Hongmen route (also known as the Imperial route) which comprises 7,000-plus stairs (and is that with the most cultural relics). It is often written/suggested that this route start at the Dai Temple, which is south of the mountain, about a 30-40min walk from the Daizong Archway (which is the recognised starting point of the actual climb), then about another 20 mins after that to reach the ticketing square – from where time to walk the mountain is measured. As the temple dedicated to the mountain, Dai is definitely worth a visit (30rmb), but deserves at least an hour, if not two, of your time – so either make it a separate outing, or allow for an additional three hours thereabouts (2 to visit / then 1 to walk to the actual start of the mountain), on top of what you allocate to climb. Tai Shan is open 24hours and you can ascend or descend her any time of the day or night (with a torch and appropriate warm clothing), and you won’t be alone! In terms of access and direction, even if you’re solo (so to speak, because hundreds will be climbing alongside you), it is well marked and there is no need for a tour guide. There’s not really much info about the temples or gates along the way, so some research ahead of time will greatly improve the enjoyment of these. You will see Chinese hiking in heels, stockings, sequins, and a full-face of makeup, but I found a good pair of walking shoes a necessity – the steps are “precipitous” (as the signs declare), and if wet, dangerously slippery. A fairly respectable level of fitness is required, but if you follow the Chinese lead and do it slow – like the kids, or the parents carrying kids, or grandparents – it’s possible, it seems, for anyone. Note: some of them take days though, so if you want to climb bottom-to-top in the oft-cited 3-6 hour bracket, you’ll need to be accustomed to some strenuous climbing. There are toilets along the route (just look for the signs), but pack tissue and hand sanitiser. Plenty of stops along the way to buy water (& hot beer) and snacks (Snickers, corn, apples, pears, cucumbers, Tai’an Pancakes, and the occasional packet of peanuts) – with greater choices at the half-way point (Middle Gate to Heaven) and summit. Most Chinese make the pilgrimage for sunrise, either having stayed overnight on the top (there are hotels, limited & expensive), or start their ascent at about 1am. There’s also the option to carry gear and camp. It seems you just find a spot and set up and there doesn’t appear to be any additional charge for this. Equally as magnificent as the more popular dawn, is the sunset, and having climbed twice, was my preference. Descending, I tend to look down to be sure of my footing. Ascending in the daylight gives a better chance to look around and really take-in the spectacular vistas this climb affords … and descending by torchlight, you don’t mind so much keeping your eyes on your feet. The descent, done reasonably rigorously, takes about three hours and is pretty tough going on the knees. If you’re even a little concerned about their weakness, it’s worth packing a strap or compression bandage. Walking sticks can be purchased, which almost everyone opts for, but I preferred without. No matter how warm it is when you set out, Jade Emperor Peak is 1,532 metres or 5,029 ft, so you’ll need a jacket at the top, preferably all-weather in case of rain. But, there are places to buy a sweater or rent a military-style coat if you forget. It took nine hours to climb up and down, which included two hours on the summit, a stop for lunch and dinner respectively, some rests along the way, and many a photo-by-request with Chinese (I saw no other Westerners). If you want to spend time in the temples, you may need to allow longer; and if you’re just necking it like an ace-athlete, you’ll probably be quicker. If you plan to use the cable car (from the half-way point – which you can access by bus or taxi), remember it is weather-dependent and can close at any time. Be prepared, if you’re on the summit and this happens, you will have to make your way down by foot or Chinese sedan chair (aka Litter). If the cable car is running to its regular service, the first car up starts after sunrise and the last down departs before sunset. Queues can be ridiculously long. If climbing, rather than going by cable car, don’t let crowds deter you. This mountain seems to be the one favoured by young Chinese, so there’s a real revelry and party-like atmosphere that is a joy to be amongst. I climbed October’s Golden Week National Day holiday (the peak time to avoid supposedly) and it was like the Chinese equivalent of Spring Break or Schoolies, sans alcohol. So much fun. It’s not the most beautiful or spectacular of the mountains you can climb in China, but legend has it if you summit Tai Shan you will live 100 years – generous compensation for seven thousand or so stairs I reckon.